Let's be real, crochet patterns definitely look confusing at first. You find a pattern, get the materials and then... you're lost. Trying to comprehend a crochet pattern by yourself all at once can be so confusing if you try to figure it out on your own, or comprehend it all at once.
If you're in this situation, then this is the perfect article for you! We'll break down everything about a crochet pattern that you might come across so it's less overwhelming and actually easy!
Part 1: Common Abbreviations
Pattern designers in crochet use abbreviations to save space and to make it easier to read. If you're making a circle for an amigurmi head and you need to follow a pattern that says "Single crochet in the first stitch. Single crochet in the second stitch." and so forth, the pattern would be huge and nearly impossible to keep track of where you're at! Let's go through some of the super common abbreviations you'll see in nearly every pattern into something you can understand (or know what to search for if you don't!).
The Basics
ch (Chain): This is the foundation. It’s the simple braid you make to start a flat row or to create height before a new row.
st (Stitch): A generic term for the "V" shape you are working into.
sl st (Slip Stitch): The period at the end of a sentence. This is a tiny, flat stitch used to join rounds or move your yarn across the fabric without adding height.
sk (Skip): Do not work into the next stitch; jump over it and work into the one after. This is often used to create holes for button loops or lace.
YO (Yarn Over): The act of wrapping the yarn over your hook.
The "Big Three" Stitches
sc (Single Crochet): The most common stitch in the world, especially for amigurumi. It creates a short, dense fabric with very few holes. In any amigurumi, you're likely going to do hundreds of these in a single pattern.
hdc (Half Double Crochet): The middle sibling. It is slightly taller than a single crochet but shorter than a double. It’s popular for hats and cozy garments.
dc (Double Crochet): A tall, airy stitch. It works up fast and is the standard for "Granny Squares" and blankets.
The shapers (Amigurumi Essentials)
If you want to make 3D objects, you need to change the shape of your fabric.
inc (Increase): "Make two stitches into the same hole." This expands your circle, turning a small ring into a wide disc.
dec (Decrease) or sc2tog (single crochet two together): "Turn two stitches into one." This *decreases* the number of stitches in the round by 1 for every decrease. Note: In amigurumi patterns, "dec" usually implies an "Invisible Decrease," which we covered in a separate blog post!
Part 2: The Grammar (Brackets, Parentheses & Asterisks)
This is where the flashbacks to math class happen. Patterns use punctuation to tell you which stitches belong together and how many times to repeat them.
The Repeats: *...* or [...] or (...)
If you see asterisks or brackets, it means "Repeat everything inside these marks."
Examples: *2 sc, inc* repeat 6 times. [2sc, inc]6. (sc2, inc)x6
Translation: "Single crochet in the next two stitches, then do an increase. Now, go back and do that whole sequence again. Do this a total of 6 times."
This is the secret to keeping your circle perfectly round. Instead of writing "sc, sc, inc, sc, sc, inc, sc, sc, inc..." the designer uses brackets to keep it clean.
Also, in the examples provided, notice the difference in the 3 examples. The first one is nearly written out for you. The second one has the number of single crochet BEFORE it tells you to single crochet. The third one has the number of single crochet AFTER it tells you to single crochet and has an added 'x' to illustrate "times 6".
The Totals: (...) at the end of a line
At the very end of a instruction line, you will often see a number in parentheses. This is your last finished row Stitch Count.
Example: R3: [sc, inc] x 6 (18)
Translation: "After you finish this round, you should have exactly 18 stitches."
Pro Tip: Frequently count your stitches at the end of a round. If the pattern says you should have 18, but you have 19, you made a mistake. Catching it now is much better than realizing it 20 rows later when your chicken's head looks lopsided!
Part 3: Additional Abbreviations and Info
Sometimes a pattern needs you to work in a specific part of the stitch to create texture or sharp edges.
FLO (Front Loop Only) & BLO (Back Loop Only)
If you look at the top of a crochet stitch, it looks like a sideways "V" made of two strands of yarn.
The strand closest to you is the Front Loop.
The strand furthest away is the Back Loop.
Usually, you stab your hook under both strands.
BLO: Insert your hook only under the back strand. This creates a ridged line on the fabric (often used for hat brims or the bottom of amigurumi feet so they stand flat).
FLO: Insert your hook only under the front strand. This is often used in amigurumi to attach ruffles or skirts later on.
FO (Fasten Off)
This is the finish line! It means cut your yarn (leaving a tail) and pull it through the final loop to lock your work.
Weave In
Often directly following a FO, weave in means that you take your yarn end that you just cut and weave it through the stitches in your work
Part 4: Putting It All Together (A Real Example)
Let's test your new skills. Here is a standard line from a pattern for a ball (like the orange in our Fruit Set).
R4: 2 sc, inc x 6 (24)
Let's decode it word-for-word:
R4: This is "Round 4."
2 sc, inc: This is the sequence. "Make one single crochet in the next stitch. Make one single crochet in the stitch after that. Make two single crochets (increase) in the third stitch."
x 6: "Repeat that sequence (sc, sc, inc) six times total around the circle."
(24): "When you finish, count your V's. You must have 24 of them."
Suddenly, it’s not algebra anymore—it’s just a recipe.
3 Tips for Pattern Success
1. Read the "Notes" Section First I know, I know—you want to start stitching immediately. But the "Notes" section at the start of a pattern contains crucial info. It will tell you if the "Chain 1" at the start of a row counts as a stitch or not. It will tell you if you are working in spirals or joined rounds. Skipping this is like trying to bake a cake without checking the oven temperature.
2. Use a Highlighter If you are working from a printed PDF (or a digital one on an iPad), highlight the size you are making.
Example: "Row 3: (Size S: 20 sc), (Size M: 30 sc), (Size L: 40 sc)." Highlight only the numbers for your size so your eyes don't accidentally wander to the wrong instruction mid-row.
3. Trust the Pattern (Usually) Sometimes, an instruction will feel "wrong." You might think, "If I do that, it's going to curl weirdly." Trust the designer! Often, amigurumi looks messy or strange halfway through, only to pull together perfectly in the final few rounds. Follow the code, and let the magic happen.
Ready to Start?
Learning to read patterns opens up a universe of creativity. You are no longer limited to YouTube tutorials; you can create anything from vintage lace doilies to modern plushies.
If you are looking for a gentle first project to practice your reading skills, why not try one of the beginner-friendly patterns available in our shop? Or, if you get stuck on a tricky line like [sc, dec, sc], hop into the Cozy Stitches Guild Discord. Our community loves helping "translate" tricky patterns for newcomers!
Grab your hook, take a deep breath, and read that code. You’ve got this.